Like a fairytale: Zurich
28 Jul 2016
Consistently voted one of the world’s most liveable cities, Zurich is also a joy to visit – a picturesque jewel of a town at the top of a crystal clear lake and criss-crossed by pristine rivers. Here’s the best that it has to offer.
EAT
It’s not all about chocolate and cheese in Zurich, although these do form a large part of Swiss cuisine. In the colder months, you’ll find heart-warming fondue and raclette on most menus. There’s plenty of bratwurst and schnitzel available year-round as well. But Zurich is also home to Hiltl (hiltl.ch/en/), the world’s first vegetarian restaurant.
Meanwhile, Sunday brunch is big here. In fact, it’s so popular that you’ll need to book ahead at most places. To sample traditional Swiss fare, you can’t go past the Zeughauskeller (Bahnhofstrasse 28A), which serves Swiss sausages, Zürcher Geschnetzeltes (a local dish of veal, mushrooms and creamy white wine sauce), Kalbsleberli (calf’s liver) and rösti potatoes. For the best of the wurst, grab a sausage from Sternen Grill (Theatrestrasse 22) at Bellevue. For dining rooms with a view, Die Waid (Waidbadstrasse 45) has a panoramic vista over the city and the lakefront Fischstube (Bellerivestrasse 160) serves up amazing seafood. Classic cafes include the opulent, art deco Odeon (Limmatquai 2) and the superb Sprüngli (Bahnhofstrasse 21), which is a chocolate-lovers’ delight. Also on the chocolate trail, Honold (Rennweg 35) is a hidden gem.
For dining options in trendy Zurich West, check out the Restaurant Markethalle (Limmatstrasse 231) and the hip Josef (Gasometerstrasse 24).
PLAY
Zurich comes alive in the summer months. The town is manageable on foot, but public transport options are easily accessible.
If you fancy a swim, Bad Utoquai is a stylish 19th century wooden bathing house from which you can dive into the sparkling waters of Lake Zurich. Other bathing spots include the women-only Frauenbadi (Stadthausquai 13) on the Limmat River and Seebad Enge (Mythenquai 9), which becomes a live music venue in the evenings and a sauna in winter. ZSG (Turbinenstrasse 5) has a range of boat tours, including brunch and fondue cruises.
The old town areas around Bahnhofstrasse and Niederdorf abound in cobblestoned streets full of shops, cafes, fountains and churches. Visit the Fraumünster (Münsterhof 2) to see the stained glass windows and the Grossmünster, where you can climb one of the twin towers for great views. Hidden delights include the leafy Schanzengraben canalside path that takes you past the Old Botanical Gardens and Lindenhof – a peaceful square incorporating the old town wall from which you can enjoy views across the river to Niederdorf. On the river, Bauschänzli has a summer beer garden with a live band.
Climbing Uetliberg – Zurich’s highest peak – is a must-do. Catch the Uetlibergbahn train from the main train station or it’s a medium-level hike that takes about 1.5 hours. At the top, there’s a lookout with views across Zurich to the snow-capped Alps.
Zurich can be pricey, so don't forget the Kunsthaus art museum (Heimplatz 1) has free general admission on Wednesdays.
STAY
There are some amazing hotels in Zurich, with prices to match, and if you want to spoil yourself, this is the place to be. If the super-luxury Dolder Grand (Kurhausstrasse 65) or Baur au Lac (Talstrasse 1) are beyond you, but you’re still keen to splash out, Hotel Storchen (Weinplatz 2) or Ambassador à l’Opéra (Falkenstrasse 6) both offer prime locations with river and lake views.
Lovely boutique hotels include the Townhouse with its ‘quirky English’ decor (think flocked wallpaper and Chesterfield lounges) and B2 Boutique Hotel, (Brandschenkestrasse 152) located in a 100-year-old converted brewery, which also houses the famous Thermalbad Zurich . Or you can step into ‘Home Sweet Helvetia’ at Hotel Helvetia (Via Cappuccini 43) on Zurich’s other river, the Sihl.
Those who wish to self-cater or stay longer in Zurich should look into EMA House’s serviced apartments in several central locations, although the best views are from the Nordstrasse address. ••
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