Natural Norfolk
23 May 2013
By day Norfolk Island baths in the sunlit warmth of the Pacific. By night, the ghosts come alive, limping out from old settlements.
Midway between New Zealand and New Caledonia, a poster on the wall of the Norfolk Island airport says ‘Welcome Back to Earth’. It promises a return to a world where people are part of a community and where working with nature is a part of life.
By night the ghosts limp out from the ruins of failed convict settlements and whispers float across the island about the true history of the Bounty mutineers. But as your themed dinner with bountineer draws to a close, or your tour through the convict ruins at Kingston comes to an end, odds are a friendly local will put you at ease with a joke or a yarn about the quirks of life on Norfolk.
Guided tours
Norfolk Island reveals itself to you slowly, a little more each day.
Experience the unique history of Norfolk as you run your hand over the stones of a convict cell or headstone during tours of Kingston. History will talk back as you chat with descendants of the Bounty mutineers and their Pitcairn families at one of the island’s famous sunset fish fries.
At the fish fry, listen to the sweet strumming of local musicians while you fill up on delicious salads, local dishes and fresh fish hauled straight from the sea.
While the history of the island keeps you entertained, the natural beauty will astound you. At night the Milky Way is laid bare in the pure air of the Norfolk night sky. In the dewy morning the Norfolk pines appear more solemn as they continue their hundred-year watch over the unique wildlife on the island.
Go your own way
Once you’ve taken in a few of the guided tours and organised events, its time to explore the island’s natural wonders and culture by yourself; you’ll need to pick up one of the cheap rental cars for this, as there is no public transport.
Take some cheese and wine down to Emily Bay and watch the clouds drift over the uninhabited offshore islands, or wander through the old cemetery and read the stories of convicts and soldiers. You’ll also find some great lookouts that reveal the peaks, beaches and rock formations along the island’s dramatic coastline.
Norfolk Island has one of the most picturesque golf courses in the Pacific and is also home to a strong lawn bowls community. For a relaxing ale with the locals, try the Bowling Club.
For a small community, art, culture and fine dining thrive on Norfolk. Norfolk Island artists have revived the art of the cyclorama. The natural and human history of the island are presented in stunning painted detail within a purpose-built building. The details are incredibly realistic and leave you feeling as if you are witnessing the events first-hand. The effect is mesmerising.
Eat up
Keep an eye out for small restaurants using fresh, local and organic produce on the island. You’ll need to book ahead for Hilli’s Restaurant, but such high quality food in an alfresco setting would be popular anywhere. The entrees and mains are pitch-perfect with mouth-watering desserts the perfect nightcap.
For lunch, a serve of take-away hot chips from the Kingston gift shop will provide the sustenance for a laid-back wander through the convict ruins.
Untouched by the hustle of city life, Norfolk Island is just a 2-hour flight from Sydney or Brisbane (or 1.5 hours from Auckland). After a few hours on the island you’ll start to leave your keys in the ignition of your hire-car, at ease with the laid-back feeling of life on Norfolk. By the time you check out you’ll know the workers at the airport by name. And is there anything wrong with that?
Travel Guide
Passports
Even though Norfolk Island is an Australian territory, flights from Australia are classed as international. As a result, your travel insurance will consider your travel international, and even Australian citizens require a passport.
Airlines
Norfolk Air provides frequent services to and from Australia. Air New Zealand operates weekly flights to Norfolk Island.
Accommodation
There is a range of accommodation on the island, from bungalows to resorts to bed and breakfasts. Spoil yourself at Forrester Court Clifftop Cottages or enjoy the easy comfort of Governor’s Lodge Resort.
How long to stay
The easy pace of life on Norfolk means that you need a week there.
Transfers
There is no public transport on the island, though tour companies will usually drop you off and pick you up from your accommodation. Hire cars are very affordable and you can just leave them at the airport when you fly out.
Join in on the Probus fun with the 2013 Christmas in July tour of Norfolk Island, featuring the queen of 70s pop, Helen Reddy.
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