How Paris got its groove back
15 Oct 2016
Jazz music breathed new life into post-war Paris, thanks to its unpredictable beat and rippling melodies.
Sometimes, things of great beauty are born from the ugliest of times. Maybe it’s because people need something good to hold onto when everything else around them has turned bad – something that brings them hope. This is how the raspy sweet sounds of jazz came to France.
During World War I, segregated troops of black American soldiers marched their unique, lively music through 3000 kilometres of small farm villages and big concert halls across France. The unpredictable, previously unheard of sounds left a lasting impression on Parisians in particular, and before long, the capital became known for its vibrant, jazz nightlife.
During World War II, the Vichy Government banned American music, but you could still hear jazz throughout the streets of Paris. Those were the sounds that became associated with freedom and resistance – jazz was the sound of liberation.
Once the days of war had passed, a musical revolution burst forth on the streets of Paris’ Lower Montmartre, where many musicians, dancers and entertainers returned to establish cabarets and clubs. The area became known as Black Montmartre, and a musical revolution was born.
The father of gypsy jazz
Today, Paris plays host to some 600 jazz concerts every month. But the sounds you’ll hear creeping around corners and in underground bars will often differ from the traditional sounds created by the likes of Miles Davis and Louis Armstrong. In Paris, you’ll find yourself jiving to gypsy jazz.
Created by the legendary Django Reinhardt, who grew up in a caravan in the Parisian suburbs, gypsy jazz is a distinctly energetic style of jazz that came about by accident. After losing the use of two of his left-hand fingers in a fire, Reinhardt was told he’d never play guitar again. Instead, he came up with a new method of playing all together, a style of jazz that incorporated three-finger chord structures balanced by smooth, rippling melodies.
The technique was passed down to generations of Manouche gypsies by word of mouth, since Reinhardt couldn’t actually read music. It’s been more than 70 years since the one-of-a-kind, hot gypsy swing first emerged in Paris, and it continues to thrive today. Should you find yourself walking past any of Paris’ modern-day jazz venues and cafes, you’ll undoubtedly be greeted with echoes of Reinhardt’s frenetic, unpredictable rhythms.
Music in the streets
To check it out for yourself, your first stop should be La Chope des Puces – the most renowned gypsy jazz venue in Paris. A large mural of Reinhardt pays homage to the years he lived and played on this very stage, which you’ll find just moments away from the bustling flea markets at Le Marché aux Puce. The bar hosts gypsy jazz concerts on weekend afternoons, where you’ll be swept away by the sultry sounds created by maestros such as as Ninine Garcia and Patrick Saussois. Should you fancy giving it a go yourself, La Chope also has a gypsy jazz music school.
For a lively, casual atmosphere, you can’t go past Les Petits Joueurs. The bistro-style restaurant greets some of France’s most prominent gypsy jazz musicians on a weekly basis, including Romane and Stephane Wrembel. Grab yourself some traditional French cuisine and a beer, before settling down for the jam session at 11.30pm. If you can stick it out to the early hours, you’ll be in the company of some of the best local talent Paris has to offer.
If traditional jazz is more your style, there are plenty of places to indulge your senses. Le Duc des Lombards will keep you dancing to the nostalgic notions of Louis Armstrong until 4am. Or if you can make your way past the crowds in the Latin Quarter, the Caveau de la Huchette has hosted jazz since 1946. Dating back to the 16th century, the building’s vaulted arches and narrow stone stairways will whisk you away to another world.
While Paris’ clubs are full of well-established artists, there are plenty of up-and-coming musicians. Café Universel’s walls are lined with American license plates and dollar bills, creating an almost grungy backdrop for young vocalists and musicians to showcase their talent. Regular visitors have formed the Paris Jazz Club and issue a monthly calendar of shows citywide, which is also available online. But if you’re pushed for time, the Tuesday night jam session is a must for jazz devotees.
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