Splendid Sicilia
26 Nov 2019
Seeing Sicily with the right guided tour sees you treated like, and introduced to, royalty. Steve McKenna takes a Collette tour of this historic Italian region.
It’s late afternoon in Palermo – the exuberant capital of Sicily – and the sun is slipping towards the horizon, casting longer shadows on the maze of cobbled alleys that thread through the city’s historic old centre. Led by Vincenzo, our charismatic tour manager, we amble in this picturesque, atmospheric labyrinth, passing pretty Baroque churches and catching glimpses of daily Palermitan life: mothers hauling in laundry off wrought-iron apartment balconies, grandmothers sweeping outside their front steps, animated children kicking footballs around, tourists and locals of all ages enjoying aperitivo (a kind of Italian “happy hour”) on the terraces of bars and cafes. The still-balmy air is spiked with chiming church bells, purring Vestas and chatter in Italian and a multitude of other languages.
Down one of the narrower, quieter side streets, Vincenzo ushers us through the doorway of Palazzo Conte Federico. While many of Palermo’s evocative old palatial buildings have morphed into museums, galleries and hotels (such as our base, Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa), this one has belonged to the same family since the 1600s. Greeting us at the top of the marble staircase that winds up from the palace’s leafy inner courtyard is Countless Alwine. Tall, blonde and glamorous, she’s the Austrian-born wife of Count Alessandro Federico, who dates his lineage back to Frederick II, one-time King of Sicily and Holy Roman Emperor. The countess, genial and charming, gives us a private tour of her beguiling abode, which is decorated with eclectic furniture, antiques, ceramics and mosaics, and is attached to a converted defence tower that was once part of Palermo’s medieval fortifications.
In one room with an array of vintage weapons on its walls, we’re treated to a spread of traditional Palermitan “street food”, including sfincione (Sicilian pizza), with wines from the family’s vineyard - a fruity white Chardonnay and ruby-red Nero d'Avola, Sicily's premier indigenous grape. To add to the fun, Alwine sings for us. A trained soprano, she grew up in Salzburg, the city of Mozart, and her beautiful voice radiates around the palace, sparking smiles and the odd tear of joy among our group (who are mostly a mix of sexagenarians and septuagenarians, some with Sicilian roots).
Touring with experts
Meeting the countess is one of the highlights of our nine-day Splendid Sicilia tour with Collette, a company that toasted its 100th anniversary last year (2018) and offers culturally-immersive tours across all seven continents, led by experienced tour managers and boosted by the expertise of knowledgeable local English-speaking guides. We encounter many engaging Sicilians on our journey around this, the largest of the Mediterranean islands, which is anchored off the boot of Italy and has a cosmopolitan history stretching back over 3000 years. Myriad civilisations have ruled here and one fact that often surprises visitors is that Sicily only become part of a unified Italy in 1861.
For the first four days of our tour we savour Palermo and its spellbinding surrounds, taking day trips to places like Cefalu, a lovely coastal resort that spreads out from its imposing, twin-towered cathedral. It’s one of nine medieval landmarks in the Palermo region jointly inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, flaunting the so-called Arab-Norman style – a blend of Western, Islamic and Byzantine cultures and architectural influences that permeated 12th century Sicily.
Another day, with driver Salvatore - a kindly, reassuring presence throughout our trip - at the wheel of our comfy tour coach, we delve into the island’s mountainous interior to visit Corleone, a town notorious for its Mafia connections. The fictional family from The Godfather saga hailed from Corleone and some of Sicily’s most feared real-life Mafiosi emerged from here. In the town’s absorbing Anti-Mafia museum, Nina, a twenty-something guide, regales us with true stories - some heart-breaking, others inspiring - about how ordinary Sicilians and brave judges and politicians fought back and weakened the grip of the Magia, an organised crime network that spread its tentacles across Sicilian society from the 19th century. Though you’re unlikely to encounter any Mafioso on your travels here, expect to see gift stores selling Godfather-themed souvenirs, such as espresso cups, beach towels and T-shirts featuring a tuxedo-clad Marlon Brando (aka Don Vito Corleone).
Another afternoon, we meet Cinzia, a vivacious mother of two young children who runs a countryside agriturismo (a farm-restaurant-retreat) with her husband Bartolo. After welcoming us with prosecco and antipasti, including caponata, a traditional Sicilian dish comprising eggplant, olives and capers, Cinzia enchants us with tales of life and love in rural Sicily and demonstrates how to hand-make island staples like arancini (breaded risotto balls) and ricotta. This whey cheese fills many Sicilian delights, notably cannoli, fried pastry tubes that are served for dessert at a few of our included group meals, including lunch at Cinzia’s.
Italian escapades
We have myriad other things to write home about in Sicily: the gelato pretty much everywhere, roaming the ancient Greek and Roman relics in the cities of Agrigento and Syracuse; pottering around the quaint hilltop town of Savoca (where the first Godfather movie was shot) and scaling Mount Etna for wine tasting and a fresh pasta lunch on its fertile lower slopes before heading further up the mountain to see its eerie, lunar-like landscapes. Towering 3350 metres high, Etna becomes a familiar sight because for the second half of our tour we stay in Taormina, an east-coast town wedged between this active and occasionally smoking volcano and the Ionian Sea.
Since the German writer, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, “discovered” Taormina in the late 18th century, it has been a magnet for foreign tourists, with everyone from Oscar Wilde and DH Lawrence to Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton flocking here. Taormina is a beauty from almost every angle, especially from its famous semi-ruined Greek theatre, and also from our base, Hotel Villa Diodoro, which has a majestic cliff-top setting. Each morning before breakfast we stroll out onto our bedroom balconies and marvel at the breath-taking panorama, with the sea sparkling below and Etna looming magnificently in the distance. We wholeheartedly agree that we won’t forget Sicily in a hurry.
FIVE OTHER GREAT PLACES TO VISIT IN ITALY
ROME: The Italian capital is a feast for the senses, whether you’re perusing ancient landmarks like the Colosseum, exploring the lanes and piazzas of the Centro Storico (historic centre) or browsing the bustling, aromatic markets of the Trastevere neighbourhood. And on Rome’s doorstep is the Vatican City, where you can visit St Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel.
TUSCANY: Admiring Michelangelo’s statue of David in Florence, posing for photos by the Leaning Tower of Pisa, seeking out the Reniassance gems of Siena and mooching along the old city walls of Lucca; the cities of Tuscany are a delight, and the countryside is stunning, too. Imagine rolling green landscapes laced with medieval hill towns, spa resorts and vineyards (this is the home of Chianti).
CINQUE TERRE: This quintet of cliff-hugging fishing villages are strung, like a necklace, along the Italian Riviera west of Tuscany. Venture between them on a network of footpaths, by taking the train or by boat. In the villages’ walkable medieval cores, expect lots of colourfully-painted buildings, family-run cafes and seafood restaurants and quirky gift stores.
VENICE: The “Jewel of the Adriatic”, Venice is like no other city on earth. This cluster of more than 100 islands is knitted together by canals and bridges. Take scenic gondola or vaporetto (waterbus) ride, soak up the buzz of Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square) and sample seafood delicacies and cicchetti (the Venetian answer to tapas) in back-street bars.
POMPEII: This ancient Roman city, south of Naples, was destroyed, and buried in ash, by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD79. Walk amid its excavated ruins and listen to expert insights from archaeologist-guides. Nearby you’ll find the seaside resort of Sorrento, the jaw-dropping cliffs of the Amalfi Coast, and you can also hop on a ferry to the beautiful Isle of Capri.
Q&A WITH COLLETTE TOUR MANAGER LUCIANA LYONS
Born and raised in Naples, Italy, Luciana is an experienced Collette tour manager who leads tours in Italy, Iceland, Switzerland, Finland and Scotland.
What makes Italy such a great destination for travellers?
There really is something for everyone. We have 49 UNESCO sites, the most of any country in the world. We have historical ruins, spectacular cities with museums showcasing priceless works of art. We have the third oldest continually inhabited settlement in the world, Matera in southern Italy, with over 9,000 years of history. Then there are our beautiful mountains, the Alps and Apennines, our great beaches and breathtaking scenery - not to mention our culture, customs and food, which is so diverse. I'd encourage anyone to travel from the top to bottom of Italy to experience it all.
Why would we choose a Collette tour over an independent vacation?
You’ll eliminate the hassle and headaches of planning, and many of the issues that arise while you are travelling. From the moment you step off the flight all is taken care of. You don't have to worry about hauling your luggage through a city you've never been to. Door-to-door transportation, all your activities, admissions and most meals are included with Collette. There’s the safety and social aspect as well, meeting other like-minded guests and always having someone watching out for you and warning you about do's and don'ts. And most importantly, having us, the tour managers, and our local guides, who are very familiar with the areas you will be visiting. We can share local knowledge on things you won’t read about in any books.
While on a Collette tour, will we also have free time to do our own thing?
Most of our itineraries are designed to also allow our guests to enjoy the wonderful cities and landmarks in their own free time. Our hotels are almost always located in the city centres, allowing guests to enjoy the areas on their own by eating and shopping where the locals go. However, they still have their own private ''concierge'' (us tour managers) to help them plan, or advise the best way to maximize their free time. We understand people seek different experiences, so in several cities we give the guests a choice to customise their own tour and pursue what interests them the most.
Travelling to Italy?
For more information about Collette:
Call 1300 792 195
Email [email protected]
Visit gocollette.com.au
Or ask your travel agent for Collette.
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