BOATING NORWAY
17 Mar 2018
Drink in the layered landscapes and mountain monuments of the fjord highway.
There’s nothing quite like Norway: lush with moss-twinged mountains that plunge deep into azure fjords, it’s a natural paradise.
You’ll spot speckling streams, cascading waterfalls and icy pools that appear to be made of glass – and that’s not nearly the half of it.
This is fjord territory – the sparsely populated terrain that makes you want to sell your possessions and bravely hike forged trails all day, drinking in the vibrant and unpolluted air.
Norwegians so strongly believe everyone should be able to experience the beauty of nature (even on privately owned areas) that the Norse “allemannsetten” (or right to roam) ensures unrestricted access to unfenced countryside. And roam we did – not that we needed more of a push than the unspoiled beauty of Fjords as it is the largest and deepest fjord in Norway.
The adventurous at heart can forge their own path by booking legs of the immensely popular cruising options. You will mostly be on boat, and there’s no better place to be than on the water in fjord territory.
In the Norwegian spirit of exploration, we chose to piece together our voyages with the Norled ferry cruising line, spacing our maiden voyage into the heart of central Norway across three days, deep in Sognefjord.
Norled’s comfortable fleet features eco-friendly express ferries, slower cruising ferries, smaller excursion tour boats, customised fjord cruises of a variety of durations, and a five-day unlimited boat aboard FJORDcard – great value if you’re hanging around a bit longer.
DAY 1: CRUISE CONTROL
We departed from the pretty and pleasant Bergen, Norway’s second largest city after Oslo and a popular base for exploring the fjord. You won’t be left wanting for fresh seafood here, with meals aplenty and hot and cold beverages – including cocktails to get you into holiday mode.
We are beckoned onboard by crew in crisp and clean uniforms that conjure nautical nostalgia.
If you’re feeling weary, there’s plenty of reclining seats; for the hungry, there are multiple restaurant options; and for the wanderers, there’s an ample open-air back deck, breezy front bow, and a wide, all-glass front steer to drink in the views in comfort.
Our sense of viking restlessness set in as we took our first steps into Leikanger, a tiny town that boasts the charming and historic Leikanger Fjord Hotel. It’s positioned to ensure breathtaking views from all rooms and the lobby, dining and picnic areas.
We rented bikes and enjoyed a leisurely ride to the neighbouring Hermansverk, where we spotted Stave churches.
Back onboard, we cut through emerald water against a backdrop of towering mountains. Hints of trickling waterfalls meandered into view as we weaved through Sognefjord on to Sogndal, and took time to shimmy onto the quieter Kaupanger – the most tranquil vista of our voyage.
Here there is another Stave church, as well as easy walking trails, a brewery and plenty of shops. You can also take advantage of the fjord; canoe, kayak or pick up a book and relax on the dock.
DAY 2: ON CLOUD NINE
After our overnight in quaint Kaupanger, we caught a relaxing and views-a-plenty bus over to Loen, where you can enjoy an elevated walk through the clouds via the Loen Skylyfft – an aerial tramway that climbs over 1000 metres to the top of Mount Hoven. There’s a dizzying array of walking trails, including some that are paved and suitable for wheelchair access, and a beautiful restaurant with sky-high views.
DAY 3: A RAIL OF A TIME
We cruised in reverse, from Sogndal to Leikanger and on to Flam – a gorgeous, albeit touristy dead-end to Aurlandsfjord (a branch of the vast Sognefjord), where you can rent bicycles, shop, explore the city lookouts or grab a bite with a view.
From here, we opted to take the Scenic Flam Railway – the steepest standard-gauge railway in the world.
As we climbed steadily upwards, we enjoyed various stops at waterfalls and old mining towns with guided commentary.
We changed trains at Myrdal to the Bergen Railway, and winding along the water’s edge on this leg of the trip was just as scenic and came at a fraction of the price.
Norway is a vast country with seemingly endless inlets to explore. We will definitely be back, and hopefully have time to venture to northern territory.
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