Margaret River
19 Sep 2013
An easy drive from Perth via the coast or country, Margaret River is the place to indulge, with rolling vineyards set against a backdrop of dazzling beaches and tall-timber forests.
A fine drop
'Life is too short to drink ordinary wine’ could have been written for Margaret River. Although small, the region accounts for more than 26 per cent of Australia’s premium wine production.
The best place to start is at the Wine Tourism Showroom located at the Margaret River Visitor Centre. Here you can organise to join a wine tour, try your hand at wine blending or join a food and wine matching class. I signed up with Dirty Detours Mountain Bike Adventure for an 18-kilometre mountain bike ride visiting four wineries and finishing with a platter of local produce, and thankfully, a lift back to the start.
If wine is not your thing, there is a selection of breweries producing anything from traditional pale ales to chilli and chocolate beer.
Whales, waves and wildflowers
With 135km of sparkling coastline, stretching from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south, the region is blessed with secluded beaches, 70 surf breaks (not including the secret spots), rocky bays and dramatic limestone cliffs. From various vantage points it’s possible to see dolphins, sea lions and, in season, whales. Each year, from June to September, thousands of whales can be seen making their annual pilgrimage along the ‘humpback highway’. Between September and December head to Geographe Bay to see Southern Right and Humpbacks frolicking in the sheltered waters.
Margaret River is also home to towering karri forests, natural bushland and more than 2500 different wildflowers. Drew McKenzie from Cape to Cape Explorers led me on a half-day walk along a section of the Cape to Cape track, starting at Smiths Beach and finishing with a dip in the aptly named Aquarium. More adventurous travellers can try a surf lesson at Contos Beach with Scott Bailey from Saturation Surfaris.
Food glorious food
Many award-winning chefs have been drawn to the region’s rich bounty, such as Tony Howell, executive chef at Cape Lodge, but there’s also a vibrant cottage industry spread across the district. Dream it and you’ll fi nd it; cherry liqueur truffles, venison chorizo, peach butter, triple cream Brie, chilli jam.
Head to Margaret River Providore for a range of tapenades, sauces, dressings and spice mixes, or indulge your Willy Wonka fantasies at the Margaret River Chocolate Company.
For the creamiest, smelliest cheeses stop at the Margaret River Dairy Company.
The region is blessed with mild weather and plenty of sunshine so no matter the
season you’ll be able to fill a hamper with fine food and wine and find a picnic spot at a secluded beach, bush or vineyard.
Road trip
Margaret River is a road-tripper's dream, with something new around every bend. My favourite drive is Caves Road, starting at Cape Naturaliste lighthouse in the north, and finishing 135 kilometres later at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in the south.
Limber up with a yoga class (if you’re inclined) and a hearty, but healthy, breakfast at Samudra Café in Dunsborough.
From Yallingup go inland, passing wineries, breweries and distilleries galore: Evans and Tate, Cheeky Monkey, Grove Liquor factory, the names just keep coming.
Pull in at Gracetown, with its protected bay and surf breaks, before continuing on to Hamelin Bay for some excellent snorkelling.
Take a detour to the township of Margaret River, home to icons such as Blue Ginger Fine Foods and Margaret River Bakery, before continuing on to Jewel Cave for some subterranean adventure.
If time permits, sign up for the three-hour Moondyne Cave experience. Moondyne has recently reopened to the public and boasts some of the largest pendulites in the world, an ancient megafauna history and the largest stalagmite in the south-west, known as The Tower of Babel.
Time your last stop for sunset at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. As the sun sinks in to the Indian Ocean, keep an eye out for passing whales.
Lap of luxury
One word to describe Margaret River? Luxury. Whatever luxury means to you – a picnic by A La Carte Hampers, a private chauffeur or a decadent spa treatment, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
For five-star accommodation, try Cape Lodge, one of Australia’s finest boutique vineyard lodges, set on a secluded vineyard on the banks of its own private lake. Its spa menu includes everything from a ‘New York’ Vitamin C facial to a Hawaiian Huna massage. Injidup Spa Retreat is another exquisite boutique property. Each of its 10 individually designed private villas has its own plunge pool and views of the Indian Ocean.
For beachfront luxury try Smiths Beach Resort at Yallingup, with a choice of five accommodation options including beach houses, apartments and pool
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