The wonders of Bhutan
05 Aug 2017
Diane Ryan, from the Ladies’ Probus Club of New Lambton, shares the unforgettable moments she spent travelling through the magical mountains of Bhutan.
We approach Paro, Bhutan, through the Himalayas. Our plane makes a sharp turn before beginning its descent. We can’t spot the runway until 15 seconds before touchdown. As our flight descends, the magnificent mountains are visible on both sides of the aircraft. Paro sits in a narrow valley.
A river, the Pa Chu, rushes along its floor, the water’s surface broken by white-capped waves. A covered bridge offers locals a comfortable place to sit and spin their prayer wheels. When I step off the plane I feel the crisp, clean air on my skin. We are 2,250 metres above sea level now. The weather is sunny with temperatures in the low 20s.
A unique culture
One of the first things I notice as I wander through the town is that the local buildings are made of dark wood. They are several storeys high with intricate designs on the windows and beautiful roofs that curve outward. They are absolutely striking.
I see many local people wearing what I am later told is the traditional dress. For men, it is called ‘go’: a knee-length coat with long sleeves and broad white cuffs, and shoes worn with knee-length black socks. Women wear a long straight skirt and a short jacket with long sleeves. A white shawl is worn to enter important buildings.
I am told Bhutan is a monarchy with an elected government. The current king took the throne after his father abdicated. But the country also has a democratically elected government. Bhutan’s constitution is based on the concept of Gross National Happiness, which spell out the principles of free education, free healthcare and the protection of the natural environment.
Bhutan is a Buddhist country with many stunning monasteries and temples. The people are respectful of all living things; dogs and cows wander freely along the roads and footpaths.
An uphill journey
On our second day we head up to the Tango Monastery, which sits at an altitude of 2,800 metres. We walk for 55 minutes along a comfortable footpath of smooth cement and the occasional stone step. The view from the top is nothing short of breathtaking. After visiting the Shakyamuni Buddha statue in Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital, we are lucky enough to chance upon a traditional dart match.
Our driver stops by a wooded area, where we can hear men calling out. We walk through the trees by the road to see about 20 men, all in traditional outfits, shouting enthusiastically around a dart board. We notice their excitement is enhanced by a few bottles of Scotch carefully perched against the tree trunks.
The men’s target sits on the ground and is only about 45 centimetres high. The men stand in two groups, some by the target and others about 15 metres away. Whenever a successful shot is made, the men at the target end form a half circle, arms wrapped around each other’s shoulders, to sing and perform a traditional dance.
Although the roads in Bhutan are quite good, there are many bends. On the drive between Paro and Thimphu there are some long drops to the river below. Occasional landslides mean some parts of the road have slipped away. Humorous signs such as ‘Peep peep, don’t sleep’ and ‘After whiskey, driving risky’ serve as a warning to drivers to stay alert.
A call to prayer
On our last day we leave at 7.30 in the morning to begin walking up to the monastery at Taktsang, which is known as the Tiger’s Nest. Built in the 1600s, the monastery is perched on the edge of a cliff at 3,120 metres. Many prayer flags sit fluttering nearby. It’s an image that has come to symbolise Bhutan for tourists, as it can be seen on many travel posters.
After six days of walking uphill to monasteries and statues, we are well prepared to complete the five-hour climb to Taktsang and back. We are rewarded with splendid views of the monastery, as well as the chance to see a group of monks chanting and playing musical instruments in one of the chapels.
We are also given the opportunity to see the cavern where it is said the monastery’s founder, Guru Rinpoche, meditated. The cavern’s walls are piled high with notes of different currencies.
If you are considering a trip to Bhutan, know that it is well worth the effort. With its mountains, attractive buildings and charming people, Bhutan is a truly special place to visit.
Travel Tips
Australians cannot visit Bhutan as independent travellers. In order to obtain a visa, you must go through an authorised tour company. Diane travelled with African Wildlife Safaris, which operates out of Melbourne.
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