A string of pearls
19 Jul 2017
Strewn across the South Pacific like the magnificent black and iridescent pearls Tahiti is famous for, the idyllic islands of French Polynesia are best enjoyed on a small cruise ship.
I mingle with new friends on the deck of Paul Gauguin as she sails out of Papeete to carry us on a seven-day cruise of the Society Islands, visiting Huahine, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Moorea. Enormous billowing cloud formations, vividly coloured by the last rays of the setting sun, are all part and parcel of tropical Tahiti, and spirits are buoyant despite nature’s spectacular sound and light show taking place above our heads. My new friends and I have just dined lavishly in L’Etoile, the ship’s main dining room. We don’t linger as we are headed for the ‘welcome aboard’ show, which celebrates Gauguin’s familiar subjects: beautiful Polynesians in their island paradise. The ship’s versatile dancers, Les Gauguins & Les Gauguines, perfectly capture the sensuality of the artist’s canvases, before bursting into the frenzied hip shaking of the traditional Tamure dance. Be warned: audience participation is encouraged.
A feast for the senses
In the morning, the storm clouds have dispersed. We wake up to clear skies and wander ashore to the sleepy garden island of Huahine, with its heady fragrances of vanilla (which is commercially grown here), gardenia (known on the island as tiare), frangipani and ginger flowers. The island is of great cultural significance for its ancient temples (marae), dating back to 700 AD. Ancient stone fish traps in the river are an intriguing historical remnant. The sacred steely blue-eyed eels are also a curiosity. Do stroll the main street and stop for a pint at the Yacht Club.
Our preferred spot for breakfast is The Grill. Luscious tropical fruits hit the right note, eggs are cooked to order, and the espresso is actually good! By night, The Grill offers Asian favourites along with classic grill items, and with its atmospheric lanterns is ideal for intimate dinners. There’s also the handsome Veranda Restaurant, which provides sumptuous buffet lunches and a wonderful afternoon tea. The menus are created by Jean-Pierre Vigato, celebrity chef of the Michelin-starred Apicius restaurant in Paris.
Something for everyone
Our next stop is Taha’a, where we are promised a beach barbecue on the tiny private islet of Motu Mahana. It doesn’t disappoint: after languishing in the aqua marine waters, lolling beneath beach umbrellas, and gorging on barbecued ribs, rumps, snags and seafood, most guests rate it as their favourite day. There’s a floating bar within wading distance of the chaise lounges, and bartenders who will come to you with exotic concoctions served in coconut shells.
Other daily activities include dive excursions, swimming with sharks and stingrays, island tours, kayaking and a host of other water activities (some of which can be undertaken from the ship’s marina platform). And if water sports are not your scene, there are WildLife Conservation Society talks (where you can learn about the island’s greatest pride – the black pearl) and day spas offering beauty treatments and massages.
Natural beauty
Bora Bora is dominated by a massive basalt mountain sitting in what appears to be a turquoise sea, but is actually a lagoon. Here we opt for authenticity, choosing to circle the island on what the locals call le truck. Though canopied, the truck is open on all sides. We are seated on wooden benches, and even with cushions provided it is hard on the buttocks. We loved seeing village life up close and personal.
Finally it is on to Moorea, our last port. Of all the islands, its extraordinary silhouette is probably the most memorable. While some of my fellow passengers make the most of their final day by taking part in various water sports, others embark on the steep journey up to Belvedere lookout – a spectacular viewpoint overlooking Cook’s Bay, Opunohu Bay, Mount Rotui and the lush valley below.
As for me, I relish my last hours on the ship lying on a chaise lounge, gazing up at my special island and humming the tune Bali Ha’i.
Maggy Oehlbeck was a guest of Paul Gauguin cruises
Travel Tips
Paul Gauguin carries 332 guests and has a crew-to-guest ratio of 1.5. Shore access is by tender. These are easy to get in and out of. All accommodation has ocean views, and 70 per cent have private balconies. All-inclusive pricing includes select wines and spirits, on-board gratuities, and complimentary kayaking, paddleboarding and windsurfing in select ports. Shore excursions, excluding Motu Mahana, attract a fee.
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