GO WEST

by SALLY HAMMOND | 21 Feb 2018

As our friendly neighbours in the west will tell you, Perth is the place to be this summer.

How could any city have a better water view?” she says.

We are standing at one of the lookouts in Perth’s Kings Park. Below us, stretching 90-plus degrees in either direction, is the Swan River which, on this sparkling autumn day, is showing off the city to perfection.

As we absorb the view, we talk. She is visiting from South Wales. I have come from NSW, but still feel proud. This is my home state.

A country kid, I never lived in Perth and only visited occasionally, thrilled by people selling bunches of sweetly fragrant brown Boronia on street corners, arcades where tearooms served special cakes, bells tolling from St George’s Cathedral, and the ferry to South Perth.

Fifty or more years later, the city has changed enormously. The flower- sellers have gone, the tearooms are replaced by trendy inner-city cafe strips. The Bell Tower’s Swan Bells chime in the freshly revamped Barrack Square wharf, a block or so from the sparkling glass high-rise of Perth’s CBD.

I wander the mega-million Elizabeth Quay development with its swooping bridges and specially constructed marina, then catch a ferry across the river to South Perth. Just because I still can.

Remote capital

The thing about Perth is that it is a long way from anywhere. It wears the ‘most remote capital city in the world’ tag rather proudly. People from the ‘Eastern States’ or ‘over East’ (terms you will hear often in Perth) need several hours of ying, or days by car, train or ship to get here. Locals holiday in Bali because it is closer than Sydney.

WA evolved differently to Australia’s other states. The Swan River colony was the third to be settled in 1829.                            

Perth grew up without much outside in uence. Soon, vines were planted in the Swan Valley, upriver from what would become the city. Later, gold and minerals would be discovered. The state became rich, with Perth the economic centre.

The park of kings

Perhaps the most far-sighted vision was to create a park and botanical gardens on prime hilltop real estate, with views to the Darling escarpment and almost to the coast; and that lovely river – unimaginatively named after black swans that so fascinated the Europeans – as its centrepiece.

Kings Park is always the place I visit rst. Approximately 7 million other visitors annually must feel the same way.                      

Not only are there panoramic views, but a Flame of Remembrance and cenotaph, a memorial to the victims of the Bali Bombing, a oral clock, as well as walking and cycling trails, and lawns to relax on with a BYO picnic. Can’t be bothered packing a hamper? The restaurant, café, or kiosk, can supply all you need.

In spring, Kings Park and Botanic Garden showcases wild flowers from all over the state, planted according to their region. Florally, at least, it means you can tour this state, that is about the size of a third of Australia, in a few hours. Each September there is a wildflower festival.

Not a nature lover ?

Perth has the WACA for cricket lovers, ocean beaches for sun and surf lovers, and some of Australia’s best restaurants for food lovers. And being Perth, there are innovative ways to enjoy the latter. Take a tuk tuk ride in Northbridge between several, or Eat the Street on a walking degustation tour.

Better still, here you can watch the sun go down over the ocean, something impossible in most other parts of Australia. With a cold beer (Swan Bitter is the local drop) or a good wine (choose a local one) it hardly gets any better.

LOCALS CALL IT FREO

The port of Fremantle is 24km from the city. Once the dowdy bridesmaid to glamorous Perth, now it swaggers with a style of its own.

Hosting the 26th America’s Cup in 1987 was a morale booster, but Fremantle has built its bona des on history. Convicts were locked up in the Old Gaol, now open to visitors. Sailing ships are honoured in the maritime museum, where there’s also a replica of the pewter plate left by Australia’s first European visitor 400 years ago.

Plan a weekend visit to the 120-year-old Fremantle Markets for bargains, a dozen or more cuisines and, outside, street jugglers and magicians.