Hawaii’s hidden treasure
15 May 2017
The sun is just starting to rise as our ferry – the first of the day – makes its voyage from Maui to Lanai, Hawaii’s smallest inhabited island.
I’m about to doze off to the sway of the waves when I hear fellow passengers gasp with excitement. A pod of spinner dolphins has come to frolic alongside the boat, treating us to a display of mid-air acrobatics as we draw closer to the coastline. It’s an exhilarating start to what is set to be a truly memorable trip.
Ask fellow travel-lovers, even Hawaii aficionados, and chances are they haven’t heard of Lanai. Its low profile makes it the ideal destination if you’re after serenity, tranquillity and pristine, unspoilt nature.
A pineapple plantation until 1992, the island has a population of around 3000, only 48km of paved roads (without a single stoplight), and a laidback, ‘old Hawaii’ feel. You won’t find any Honolulu high-rises in the main town, but you will spot colourful plantation-style cottages and a handful of quaint boutiques and cafés, all dwarfed by the many towering Cook Island pines.
There’s no public transport here, so I’ve asked Mikee from Adventure Lanai (adventurelanai.com), a spritely adventure-lover whose silver beard is the only evidence he’s a day over 25, for a guided jeep tour. Having moved to Lanai “in 1989 and a half”, his fondness for the place hasn’t waned. “I love my neighbourhood; it’s so beautiful here, and the natural environment is still exactly the same as when I first arrived,” Mikee enthuses.
NATURE AT ITS BEST
Nature here is indeed awe-inspiring, and it’s what the tourist ‘must dos’ revolve around. For starters, there’s Hulopoe Bay, a protected marine reserve where snorkelers are treated to a dazzling array of tropical fish and even spinner dolphins if they’re lucky. The adjacent beach park makes a lovely picnic spot and it’s well worth a visit in the evening too; sunsets here are simply spectacular.
Shipwreck Beach is another highlight, where you can see the giant, rusted hull of an oil tanker from the 1940s, and clear views out to the nearby islands of Molokai and Maui.
Then there’s Garden of the Gods, a surreal, lunar-like landscape of ochre-coloured boulders and spires crafted by centuries of erosion, and Munro Trail, which winds through rainforest to the island’s highest scenic point.
There a lot to see, but adapting to island time is the only mandatory here. “Slow down,” Mikee reminds me, as I flip through my travel itinerary. “You’re on holidays.”
THE LUXE EXPERIENCE
As well as nature at its most rugged and raw, Lanai offers creature comforts. At the Four Seasons Lanai (perched majestically above Hulopoe Bay) you can expect the latest mod-cons – think TV screens built into bathroom mirrors and in-room iPads. You can tee off over gorges and ravines at the Manele golf course, or recline poolside in a cabana nestled in lush, tropical gardens.
Dining-wise, Blue Ginger Café is a good spot to sample the local cuisine or a freshly-baked pastry. And for dinner, Lanai City Grille offers a cosy and relaxed ambience. Or take a ferry to the Ka'anapali Beach Hotel on Maui, which offers an award-winning Sunday champagne brunch and Luau, an authentic Hawaiian feast.
Whether you’re looking to enjoy the resort life or revel in the natural landscape, it’s easy to see why Lanai draws high-profile celebs like Oprah, Madonna and Tom Cruise. “Celebrities love it here because they can go to a café and no one will recognise them or care,” says Mikee.
It’s just as well I packed my wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses: if no one knows I'm here, perhaps I can stay.
DAY TRIPPER
Accommodation options on Lanai are limited, so you may prefer to stay on Maui. It’s only an hour away via Expeditions ferry service (go-lanai.com), and has a similarly relaxed vibe. Plus it has activities to suit every inclination, from energetic (snorkelling, helicopter rides, tours of Haleakala Crater) to leisurely (shopping in Lahaina harbour or the ‘Road to Hana’ scenic drive).
Our tip: If you’re after comfortable luxury and the convenience of being self-contained, base yourself at the Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas (westinkaanapali.com). Or, for an authentic Hawaiian experience, try the Ka’anapali Beach Hotel (kbhmaui.com).
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