Escape to Lake Como
12 Oct 2017
Framed by snow-covered peaks, olive vine-clad terraces, and bell towers perched on perilously steep inclines, the shimmering waters of Lake Como transfix all who behold them.
The first thing most visitors to Lake Como want to know is which villa is George Clooney’s. The answer is that Clooney owns Villa Oleandra near Laglio, just a couple of ferry stops from the Villa d Éste in Cernobbio.
Don’t worry, you will spot it on your ferry ride. This gorgeous part of Northern Italy has entranced princes, potentates, poets and painters for centuries. Churchill and Napolean both visited, while (on a more somber note) Mussolini and his mistresses were executed nearby by Italian partisans.
A blissful backdrop
Sitting at the foot of the Alps and mere minutes away from Switzerland, Lake
Como stretches over 46 kilometres. It’s a glacial lake, and one of the deepest in Europe. Named Lake Lario by the Romans, Lake Como’s shoreline is spangled with superb villas and an enviable microclimate that allows locals to indulge their passion for tropical gardens.
Photography was invented here by Henry Fox Talbot, paving the way for the lake’s long association with cinema. Alfred Hitchcock made his fi rst fi lm The Pleasure Garden here in 1925, Luchino Visconti, director of The Leopard and Death in Venice, spent his childhood summers at Villa Erba, and Oceans 12, Star Wars Episode 11, and the remake of Casino Royale, all feature scenes shot at various locations around the lake.
Ferrying around
The lake is divided into three arms: the northern arm begins in Colico, while Como and Lecco sit at the southwest and southeast respectively. The enchanting village of Bellagio sits at the intersection with the panoramic spectacle of the Alps as backdrop.
Easily the most satisfying way to experience the lake and stickybeak at the magnificent villas is by ferry. They are a delight. Buy a day ticket at the Navigazioni Lago di Como ticket offices, located at local boat landings, and you are off on a memorable ride.
There are car ferries, hydrofoils and shuttle ferries, as well as tour boats, private motor launches, vintage lake steamers and Lucias – the lake’s traditional rowboat. My travel companion and I never tire of watching the ever-changing boat ballet from our hotel’s restaurant, La Terrazza, or the picture-perfect view of Bellagio and the snow-capped Grigne mountains.
Stepped in history
Grand Hotel Tremezzo (grandhoteltremezzo.com) is an Art Nouveau-style hotel situated on the sunny slopes of the Azalea Riviera. It is owned and operated by the De Santis family.
The family’s ancestor built it in 1910 to host the era’s fashion elite, who came in droves prior to World War I. Now it is a contemporary lakeside resort that attracts clients from all corners of the globe, including many from New Zealand and Australia.
Our neighbour is Villa Carlotta, which boasts botanic gardens that are famous throughout Europe. They are especially beautiful in spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in full flush. The Villa del Balbianello also features a stunning garden, whose tall cypress create a spectacular silhouette when viewed from the water.
Other sublime gardens can be found at the Villa d’Este and Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni.
A day out
Como is the home of the Italian silk industry. Peruse the shops, but also take a moment to admire the handsome duomo (cathedral). Note the impressive statues of Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger. Around Bellagio’s picturesque waterfront there are some interesting boutiques.
Top marks go to Azalea Silk for Missoni pieces, silk scarves and ties, and Bellagioseta for artisanal handbags, enormous silk squares and adorable quilted jackets. For a memorable meal, book a table at Locanda dell’Isola Comacina on the tiny island of Comacina.
This inn has served the same Italian menu since 1947. •• Maggy Oehlbeck was a guest of Grand Hotel Tremezzo.
Travel tips
The best time to visit is between April to October. Thereafter, many hotels close. Como is a 40-minute drive from Milan and trains run every hour.
For ferry information visit: navigazionelaghi.it If you want a bespoke experience on Lake Como, Destination Management Company IC Bellagio are experts in the region.
For information visit: icbellagio.com
For tourist information, visit: lakecomo.com
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