Grace and grandeur
23 Nov 2015
One of the most significant monuments in Portugal from the 18th century, the iconic Mafra National Palace is a lesson in the country’s history.
Portugal remains a well-kept secret of Europe, its royal heritage well-preserved in a baroque feast of art patronage from architecture to gold-gilded books. The Mafra National Palace, located in the town of Mafra, 28 kilometres from Lisbon, is rich with history and an architectural feat to be admired.
A step back in time
Hailed as one of the most important Baroque monuments in Portugal, the palace was commissioned by King João V (1689-1750) and built in the first half of the 18th century. It remains a testament to Portuguese globalisation, made possible by gold from Brazil and other European commissions, and a further symbol of the royal authority through his patronage of the arts.
Sources say the palace was built in fulfilment of a vow, though it’s unclear whether it was in conceiving an heir with his wife Maria Anna of Austria, or for being cured of a serious disease.
The building covers almost four hectares, comprising the royal palace, basilica and convent. Although it was never inhabited as a permanent residence, Mafra was the favoured hunting ground of João V, an 819-hectare park with roaming herds of deer and boar enclosed by a 21-kilometre wall. Hunting and general sightseeing tours are still available in the park today.
The building was designed symmetrically from the basilica, with two towers on either side of the main facade and the convent in the back. Construction was led by German goldsmith and military engineer, João Frederico Ludovice, who was also trained in architecture in Italy. His design was inspired by Rome, as well as Italian artist Bernini and architect Borromini, and German influences.
The building itself was constructed of local limestone and marble from nearby Pêro Pinheiro and Sintra, making up the almost 1200 rooms, 156 stairways and 29 interior courtyards. The foundation stone was laid in 1717, and on 22 October 1730 – the king’s 41st birthday – the blessing of the Basilica took place.
The palace has withstood some of the most important events in Portuguese history. The convent was named to the National Treasury in 1834 when the religious orders in the country became extinct. Part of the former convent remains intact for visitors, including the infirmary, with curtained alcoves for the gravely ill decorated with painted tiles of religious scenes. It was the favourite palace of King João VI, and it would house Portugal’s last king, Manuel II, on his final night in the kingdom before exile on 5 October 1910.
The highlights
The carillons
One of the most spectacular sites at Mafra is the convent’s two carillons – 98 tuned bells in two towers, making it the world’s largest historic carillons. The bells are operated by both an automatic and manual system, either chiming a programed melody or operated carillonneur on a baton keyboard played by the hands and feet.
The library
Housing around 30,000 volumes, the palace library is one of the most important European libraries today. Notably, it contains a 15th century illuminated Book of Hours and a collection of incunabula – books printed, rather than handwritten, before the 16th century.
The basilica
The basilica, dedicated to St Anthony, forms the central axis of the building, with the north and south carillons on either side. It houses six organs as well as a painting by Francesco Trevisani of the Virgin, Jesus and St Anthony, along with marble retables in the side chapels by Alessandro Giusti and his disciples. Its 65-metre-high dome was the first cupola built in Portugal.
Handy info
Each year, the Mafra National Palace attracts 240,000 visitors. Thinking of checking it out? Here are some helpful tips to help you on your trip.
Cost
Tickets are €6 per adult, €3 for visitors over 65 with ID.
Time to travel
Visiting during the European summer is recommended. School groups often schedule tours through the warm months, but can be avoided by touring the main exhibits during lunchtime. Note the basilica and library are closed for lunch.
Time
The average visit takes 90 minutes.
Location
The National Palace of Mafra is 40 kilometres outside Lisbon, a 35-minute drive or a 40-90 minute bus trip (depending on the availability of express buses).
Tours
Tours are available in Portuguese for €1, but not in other languages. This is the biggest drawback, as few of the rooms have itemised descriptions of the contents. Luckily many of the staff speak a little English, and you can ask them for information on your favourite artwork. However, you can buy an English guidebook from the ticket office for €1.
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