Tri-state tango
20 Oct 2018
Can you see the precise point where the Australian outback starts?
My wife, and trusty co-pilot in our six-berth Apollo Motorhome, has read that it begins somewhere between Orroroo and Carrieton – about three hours north of Adelaide in South Australia – and we have our eyes peeled.
We’ve seen a few signs already: drivers in the other direction giving us the laconic steering-wheel wave, deep cuts in the roadside scrub coloured blood red, and a whole lot of nothing. But then I spot a true member of the outback club.
A shingleback lizard suns itself in the dust and rocks near the highway. He seems unconcerned by his new-found fans, but when I hold my phone a little too close to take a picture he turns on me, mouth wide to show his bright blue tongue.
Shinglebacks – also known as sleepy lizards – are the romantics of the reptile world, mating for life. They live alone for most of the year, but seek out the same mate around September to November.
To me, he is a totem of the arid centre of the country. It’s official: the outback has started.
We’ve decided to stay in Carrieton for the night and arrive at sunset. We see the Carrieton Caravan Park is in the old rural school.
In the morning, we get another sign of the outback when we’re late to our morning shower and it has already been cleaned. The caretaker declares me a “pain” and shoots me a wry smile. Later, we get back in the good books by buying some things at the on-site shop, and then drive to Wilpena Pound.
We hit the Southern Flinders Ranges, and there’s no longer any question as to whether we’re in the outback. We regularly spot emus along the side of the road, see animal skulls nailed to farm fences, and wedge-tailed eagles spiral overhead. We also start to see the granite ripple of the ranges themselves on the horizon.
Wilpena Pound: meeting place
The following morning we awaken to a family of emus kicking up dust outside our van. We eat quickly so we can take the track to Stokes Hill Lookout. It’s a red dirt track taking us past the Old Wilpena Station, which has been a working station for over 135 years. Past the station it’s straight up again, but we push on and end up at a viewing platform over Wilpena Pound – and the scale of this huge natural amphitheatre is revealed.
The traditional owners, the Adnyamathanha, called it Ikara – meaning “meeting place”. Indigenous people from all around were drawn to this special place for ceremonies for thousands of years.
That night, we take part in a Welcome to Country at the Wilpena Pound Resort. We find out the Adnyamathanha believe the ranges were created by two dreaming serpents, and get shown the local flag with Ikara represented by a circle in the corner. The following morning, on a walk to Arkaroo Rock, we’ll see that same symbol in ochre and charcoal rock paintings in a cave below the Chace Range.
Leaving the solace of Wilpena Pound, we make tracks for the area’s big city, skipping across states to Broken Hill in New South Wales. This is truly sparse country, with towns so small we start placing bets when we see a town name on a sign: will it be a town or just a railway station? Pub or no pub?
Hi-ho Silver City
Upon arrival in the “Silver City” – a nickname for Broken Hill due to its mining history – it’s funny how busy it seems after days in the bush.
We explore the town for the day, stopping for a drink in the Palace Hotel, parking our big motorhome on the same street where the boys from Priscilla, Queen of the Desert parked their bus. Then, we wind our way up the dirt road to the Miner’s Memorial that overlooks the town.
There’s movie history to our last night in the outback, too. We’re taking the bumpy road out to Silverton, a classic outback town of just a few buildings that was the first place to discover silver ore in 1875. The town, including the famous pub, is also well-known for its roles on the silver screen.
We arrive at Penrose Park and are assigned our piece of red dirt. We’re just in time to walk up to the pub for a sundowner. The simple brick building, unchanged since the early silver days, does not disappoint.
The whole evening is given a Mad Max boost by the fact there’s a 4x4 race in town and some seriously pimped cars are rolling in to grab dinner or some take-aways.
I scan the old black-and-white photos on the wall of Mel Gibson and the animatronic pig from Razorback, then we walk back by mobile-phone torchlight and take in the bright stars.
In the morning, we visit the Mundi Mundi lookout, 10 minutes out of town, that was home to the initial chase scene in Mad Max 2. We then visit the Mad Max Museum on the hill above the Silverton Pub.
British bloke Adrian Bennett loved the movie so much that he collected memorabilia and then moved from Bradford, England to Silverton to open the museum. It’s a cramped, eclectic place with every inch of space covered by photos, posters or relics from George Miller’s classic. It also might be one of the most outback things ever – a mix of obsession, isolation and passion.
Having had just a taste of the wide expanse that takes up most of this country, it’s time for us to go. Now for that long drive home.
Trip details
The vehicle
We borrowed the Euro Deluxe motorhome from Apollo Motorhome Holidays, which sleeps six. There are also two dining areas and an awning, full kitchen and bathroom; plus some chairs and a table to sit outside on.
Prices from $114 per night; for full details contact apollocampers.com.au
The drive
We covered 2,600 kilometres from Melbourne, past Adelaide and up to Broken Hill before returning to Melbourne. Two nights were spent at Wilpena Pound.
*Images – SA Tourism, Destination NSW
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