Languid Languedoc
11 Jul 2013
Exploring the historic waterways of France’s Languedoc region provides the perfect mix of culture, adventure and relaxation.
As evening falls, the murky water of the Canal du Midi turns from a dull brown to a glassy tableau bathed in the last rays of autumn sunshine.
The perfect reflections of canal-side plane trees are broken only by the occasional splash of an unseen fish, or a sparrow seeking an evening meal.
Gleeful chatter and clinking of glasses can be heard emanating from other boats moored in the vicinity. Local wine is flowing and cruisers are enjoying fresh local fare collected from the morning markets.
Cruising the Canal du Midi is one of France’s quintessential experiences. Constructed in the 17th century, the 242km-long canal is an engineering marvel designed to transport cargo as far as the Mediterranean coast.
Rendered defunct by the railway in 1857, the canal is now one of France’s biggest tourist attractions, largely thanks to the many jewels along its banks.
Cruising through history
Setting off from the quaint market town of Castelnaudary – the home of one of France’s heartiest dishes, cassoulet – it doesn’t take long to get into the spirit of life on the canal.
The pace is slow, with regular stops to collect the morning croissants or visit a cave – wine cellar – to taste and stock up for the journey.
Navigating the many locks along the canal is an art form, as is reclining on the deck with a good book, admiring the passing scenery and enjoying what the French do best: the art of living.
Stop off to visit the walled city of Carcassonne. Founded by the Visigoths in the fifth century, the stunning fortress has seen centuries of bloody feuds and witnessed some of France’s most significant historical events. Thoroughly restored in 1853, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997.
Further along the canal is Argens Minervois, a beautiful Cathar village surrounded by world-famous vineyards.
Nothing conjures a sense of magic quite like wandering across ancient cobblestones, gazing upon ruined vestiges and wondering just what the village has seen in centuries gone by.
The last stop before embarking on the return journey is picturesque Homps, a friendly town famous for its delectable olives and a veritable melting pot of boats and barges. Dining in one of the many excellent canal-side restaurants is a must before setting off once again on this marvellous nautical adventure.
How do you do?
Self-drive
Pros You’re the master of your own destiny. Like a particular spot? Stay there as long as you like.
Cons You have to be confident driving a barge (though you don’t need a licence). Navigating locks along a canal can be tricky.
Canal barge captained cruises
Pros With someone else at the helm, all you have to do is sit back and relax.
Cons More expensive than self-drive, and you’ll likely have to stick to a set itinerary.
Riverboats
Pros Cruising along rivers means you can go faster and cover more ground, with the possibility of crossing into neighbouring countries.
Cons You may need a licence if you plan on skippering your own vessel, and more commercial traffic can dampen the atmosphere.
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