Ole, Ole, Ole

14 May 2016

The home to more tapas bars than you can shake a stick at and filled with beautiful historic architecture, here’s where to go in Seville.

Eat

Television chef Rick Stein was onto a winner when he visited El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40, 41003) for his TV series Spain. Established in 1670, it claims to be the oldest restaurant in Spain. Those in the know stand at the ornate wooden bar and enjoy sampling some of the best Iberico ham and Rioja wine around. Alternatively, you can take a seat at one of the tables at the back of the restaurant for a sit-down meal – the steak doesn’t disappoint. Part of the fun of El Rinconcillo is watching the mature (and masterful) waiters in action. Grab a glass of fino sherry, sit back and enjoy.

It’s always a good sign when the local city-types swarm to a restaurant. Bodeguita Casablanca (Calle Adolfo Rodríguez Jurado, 12, 41001), round the corner from the Catedral de Sevilla (Av. de la Constitución, s/n, 41004), is a great place to mix with the discerning foodies of Seville. Grab a spot at the bar or at one of the outside tables and order one of the stews of the day, cooked in the traditional Andalusian style. Whether fish, veal or pig’s cheek, it will melt in your mouth. Couple this with one of the cold local beers on tap to combat the heat of the afternoon.

For a taste of modern tapas, head to Duo Tapas (Calle Calatrava, 10, 41002) just off trendy Alameda de Hércules, named in honour of the mythological founder of the city, Hercules. The restaurant packs out quickly as soon as the clock strikes 8pm, so get in early. Tapas here is made with a twist and includes Asian and American influences – try the mini burger and curry. The unctuous chocolate fondant dessert is worth the visit alone.

Play

There are many ways to see the sights of Seville. The city is totally flat and very compact, so it’s perfect for walking or biking. See by Bike (Pastor y Landero, 4, Mercado del Arenal – Puesto 48, 41001) offers three-hour guided tours (€25) that take in all the main sights. They will also deliver bikes to your hotel for a mere €9 for three hours. Alternatively, take a horse-drawn carriage from one of the many stops in the city centre (the main one is outside the Catedral de Sevilla) for a romantic tour.

The original walls surrounding the city of Seville were built during the rule of Julius Caesar. The Roman influence can still be seen in the columns in La Alameda de Hércules (Plaza de la Alameda de Hércules, 23, 41002), a popular square with locals in the evening. Grab a seat at one of the many open air bars, order a refreshing tinto de verano (a local favourite made from red wine and lemonade over ice) and enjoy the people watching.

Part tourist attraction, part working government building, Plaza de Espana was built to celebrate the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Each of Spain’s regions are represented in tiled plaques across the curve of the plaza, which has featured in films including Lawrence of Arabia and the more recent Star Wars films. 

The later influence of the Moorish conquest from North Africa can still be found in the city’s architecture. The Alcazar (Patio de Banderas, s/n, 41004), also the location for the Water Gardens of Dorne in the TV series Game of Thrones, was originally built as a Moorish royal retreat and the tile work is second to none. Those interested in purchasing tiles to take home should cross the Puente de Triana bridge to the gypsy quarter Triana, where the best ceramicists of Seville are located down the winding backstreets. 

Stay

We all remember doing the Macarena and for an authentic taste of Seville life, it’s the suburb for you. Located in the heart of the Macarena is Hotel San Gil (Calle Parras, 28, 41002). The hotel offers four-star living that includes a rooftop pool, the perfect place to while away the late afternoon after a day of sightseeing. 

Want to be close to the action? Check out former Jewish quarter, Barrio de Santa Cruz, close to the Alcazar and Catedral de Sevilla. The jewel in the crown is the Hotel Alfonso XIII (Calle San Fernando, 2, 41004). Think art deco and colonial elegance. El Arenal (home to the bullring and watchtower) and El Centro (home to the Parque de María Luisa and Plaza de Espana) are also great locations.