Discover the Kimberley
15 Aug 2013
Cruise from Broome to Darwin and enjoy the vast expanse of ocean from which to explore the Kimberley region and the magnificent sea life that comes with it.
A chipper breeze was blowing, the ship was choofing along and the water was sparkling on our first day at sea. We spotted a large, black rock in the distance, on the seeming nothingness of the Indian Ocean – a strange place for a little island. Then the island moved.
The island began to separate, became two humpback whales moving towards us. Two whales became four, then six. They swam in pairs and started the water dance. Springing out of the sea, they twisted, turned, face up, tail up and then took a shallow dive to move closer to the ship.
Mesmerised, we watched as their antics became more outrageous, then the captain came on the blower to announce that he was stopping the ship so we could enjoy this spectacle. And that was just the first day of our nine-day cruise from Broome to Darwin on the expedition ship Orion, in and out of remote and secret places in the heart of the country.
Every day, with the sun shining on the cool air of the morning, presents a decision: onshore or onboard? Into those Zodiacs we jump, never knowing what will be revealed. Our guides are all experts in their fields; they know all about animals, marine life, geology, geography, big rocks, small rocks and more, and have the talent to keep us on our toes.
Paradise found
Aboard a Zodiac skimming towards the coast to Crocodile Creek and Nares Point, I looked down. There were about half a dozen dolphins crisscrossing the front of the craft – a magic moment.
We drift up a gorge in Koolan Island, step ashore and walk up a short ladder to discover the crew standing under umbrellas, wearing sombreros, strumming guitars and proffering chilled glasses of icy margaritas – incongruously magnificent.
A tumbling waterfall hits the surface of the most enticing pool; of course a swim is de rigueur.
Modern history
We also explored the curious shapes of the coast of Talbot Bay where the Kimberley continent collided with the Australian landmass, causing massive heating along the borders of contact. The Kimberley region was created. But not neatly. The folding and buckling of the sedimentary rocks welded the boundaries, hence the rolling, petticoat-frill effect that presents some of the most stunning images along the whole of the Kimberley coast.
More stunning images are ashore at Vansittart Bay. Aboriginal legend says Gwion Gwion art on the walls was created by birds that pecked the rocks until their beaks bled and then created elegant, delicate figures with tail feathers and their own blood.
Back on board, on deck for dinner embraced by a balmy night, we dine on seafood, sip chilled wine and talk of everyday events.
In the dark night of the Indian Ocean there is a murmur from a million years ago coming from land close by. Dust motes float through fairy lights on deck: red dust from the scarred walls of the vast open cut mines.
This is the Kimberley and all around us is timeless geological intrigue and mystery.
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