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24 hours in Tokyo

There’s a lot of ground to cover and plenty to see, so jump aboard
Tokyo’s trains and get started!

See

On a clear day, Tokyo Tower is a perfect introduction to the city. Ascending this Tokyo icon gives you a 360-degree view of the city below and an accurate idea of just what a city of 14 million people looks like! I and my 80-year-old travelling companion – who is mortally afraid of heights – courageously traversed the glass-bottomed viewing platform of this 333m-high tower.

Hidden inside a deep wood inside a park in the middle of the city, the Imperial Palace is home to Japan’s private royal family. It is notoriously difficult to obtain a tour of the palace, but the grounds are open to the public and well worth a visit, providing a welcome oasis of greenery inside Tokyo’s urban cityscape. 

One of Japan’s most popular rulers was the Emperor Meiji. The majestically austere Meiji Shrine was built to honour their leader and his wife Empress Shoken. It sits within 175 acres of forest in the centre of Tokyo, and on a Sunday you may be lucky to see a bride in traditional clothing.

A cruise down the Sumida River is a relaxing way to see the city from a different viewpoint. Grab a hot chocolate from the little café on Hinode Pier and sit back and enjoy the quiet 40-minute ride down to the bustling shopping district of Asakusa.

Tokyo is famed for its colourful open-air markets. One of the most popular is the Nakamise Shopping Arcade in Asakusa. There are a few hours of great shopping fun to be had there.

Eat

Morning

Going out for breakfast is not really the popular pastime it is in Australia, so it’s hard to find cafes that offer breakfast menus. The better option is to enjoy the breakfast buffet offered in most hotels.

The three-star Monterey in Hanzomon offers an extensive buffet, with western dishes like croissants or eggs and bacon, plus rice, vegetables, Japanese soup and tofu for those who prefer to eat like a local. The Patio restaurant within the Hotel Grand Arc in Hanzomon also has a surprisingly reasonable a la carte breakfast menu for those watching their pennies.

Lunch

At lunchtime, snacking on freshly prepared food from street stalls (yatai) gives you the chance to sample a host of different delicacies without breaking the budget.

If you prefer a sit-down lunch, look for restaurants where there are plenty of locals chowing down.

Tea

Instead of a coffee stop in the afternoon, take in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Many of Tokyo’s larger hotels, like the Hotel Okura (1050yen/person) feature these, but be sure to book in advance to avoid being turned away.

Dinner

With 80,000 restaurants in Tokyo, it can be difficult to choose. The fashionable neighbourhood of Ebisu boasts dozens of traditional eateries. If you need a break from tempura and raw fish, the Hard Rock Cafe in Roppongi is a haven for baby boomers needing a fix of cheeseburger and fries with some Jimi Hendrix on the side.

Stay

The stylish, three-star Hotel Monterey in Hanzomon is part of a Japanese chain of boutique hotels. The location is great – very central yet quiet, and directly opposite a subway station that links with major Tokyo train lines. There are several restaurants, a traditional bakery and a few small supermarkets all within a couple of blocks, and most of the hotel staff speak basic English.

For a special occasion, it is hard to go past one of Tokyo’s most celebrated hotels, Park Hyatt Hotel, Shinjuku. The domicile of Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson in Lost in Translation, it boasts all the luxuries you would expect, plus a few more. The New York Grill on the 52nd floor has unbeatable panoramic views of Tokyo included in the price of a $170 steak!

Three things to get used to

  1. Technology truly is king. It seems everyone – from the youngest child to businessmen in suits to grey-haired seniors – is toting an electronic gaming device or mobile phone, and using them constantly.
  2. Even elevators talk to you, politely greeting with Ohayõgozaimasu (good morning).
  3. Many Tokyoites speak little or no English, so it is wise to learn a few basic Japanese phrases before hitting the city.
  4. You will enjoy yourself more and probably meet a few interesting characters along the way.
  5. Toilets are an art form. As soon as you sit, a discreet ‘waterfall’ noise begins (or in some cases, mellifluous birdsong). You then have the choice of using plain old toilet paper or the more exotic bidet function, with its gentle water spray.