Istanbul less travelled
16 Sep 2015
Millions of people visit Istanbul’s famed historic sites every year, but if you’re looking for a different, less crowded perspective on this fascinating, culturally-diverse city, it pays to go a little off-track. By Sally Macmillan
Cross the Bosphorus
While the main attractions are on the European side of the city, there’s lots to see on the Asian, or Anatolian, side and the ferry ride across the Bosphorus offers lovely views. Ferries leave from Eminönü and dock at Kadıköy, from which you can walk to the markets (Sali Pazari, the biggest one, is held on Tuesdays). As well as an array of fresh produce – the main street is Güneşlibahçe Sokak – you’ll find dozens of bustling cafes, Turkish tavernas and seafood restaurants. Take the heritage tram (T3 line, the Kadıköy-Moda Nostalgia Tramway) to nearby Moda, a hip spot packed with bookstores, antique shops and art galleries. Visit the 19th-century Beylerbeyi Palace, a former summer residence of the Ottoman sultans. Chandeliers adorn the reception rooms and the salon features an indoor fountain (Abdullahağa Caddesi, Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar, north of the Bosphorus Bridge).
Istanbul Modern
Karakoy, a semi-industrial neighbourhood near the Galata Bridge, is rediscovering its historic past. Since the Istanbul Modern Art Museum (Meclis-i Mebusan Cadessi) opened its doors in 2004, many of the derelict warehouses and laneways that were lined with hardware and mechanics’ shops have been taken over by cool clubs, restaurants, hotels and shops. Istanbul Modern is in a huge, restored, waterfront warehouse that has more than 8000 square metres of exhibition space. It has permanent and temporary exhibition spaces and specialises in contemporary art and photography.
Private tours for between four and 20 people are available in English for 10TL per person (about $5), or you can hire an audio guide (10TL). Even if you’re not mad about art, the restaurant on the terrace has superb views across the Bosphorus and is a top spot for lunch or dinner. And if you’re looking for unusual gifts or souvenirs, check out the museum’s design store for jewellery, beautiful homewares and stylish stationery (Meclis-i Mebusan Cadessi).
Indulge in a hammam
There are dozens of traditional Turkish bath houses known as hammams (4) around the city, but it’s a good idea to ask your hotel concierge or a reputable tour guide for recommendations. Most have separate sessions for men and women and while they offer different services, generally you start by lying on a slab of marble in the steam room for about 20 minutes. Then, an attendant pours warm water over you, rubs you down with an exfoliating mitt and gives you a soaping and shampooing, followed by more rinsing.
Afterwards, you can laze about drinking mint tea. The process can take a couple of hours and you will emerge glowing and relaxed. A friend and I made reservations for Kilic Ali Pasa Hamam (Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mh., Hamam Sk. No:1; kilicalipasahamami.com), a beautiful restored 16th-century bathhouse in Karaköy, via its website.
Escape to the islands
During the stifling hot summer, many Istanbul residents take off for a day or weekend to the Princes Islands. Ferries depart regularly from the Kabataş, Beşiktaş, Kadıköy and Bostancı ferry docks (see turkeytravelplanner.com for details) and stop at the four largest islands: Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada. Seabus catamarans are the fastest. No cars are allowed on the islands – you either walk, cycle or ride in a horsedrawn carriage – which makes a peaceful change from the noise and chaos of the city traffic. It’s best to visit during the week as weekends are busy.
Heybeliada and Büyükada have more to offer than the smaller islands – restaurants, cafes, shops, parks and small beaches – and if you’re a keen walker, head for the Greek monastery of St George in the hills of Büyükada. You can hire a donkey for the last, steepest section of the walk.
4 must-see sights
Blue Mosque
(Sultanahmet Camii)
It’s the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets and is known as the Blue Mosque because of the thousands of blue ceramic tiles inside.
Hagia Sophia Famed for its mosaics, it was built as a church during the Byzantime empire, was converted to a mosque in the 1400s and when Turkey became a secular republic in 1923, it turned into a museum.
Topkapi Palace
Built in 1462, the former home of Ottoman sultans and their harems is one of the oldest, biggest palaces in the world. Don’t miss the museum and kitchens.
Grand Bazaar
One of the largest in the world, this 15th-century covered marketplace in Beyazit has more than 3000 shops. Bargaining is essential (and fun). Closed on Sundays and public holidays. ••
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