24 hours in Quebec
21 Feb 2013
Only got a short time to spend in Quebec? There’s plenty to see and do, so here are the highlights.
See
Citadel and Plains of Abraham
For a fantastic view of Quebec and the St Lawrence River visit the Citadel (a fort) and stride atop the 4km of walls that enclose the old town. Nearby are the Plains of Abraham Battlefields where the British defeated the French in 1759.
Dufferin Terrace
Flanking the imposing hilltop hotel Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac is a wide promenade with Parisian-style gazebos, known as Dufferin Terrace. Stroll along past the artists and musicians who come out in warmer months.
Quebec – Lower Town
Old Quebec comprises the Upper Town, where Dufferin Terrace is found) and Lower Town, connected by funicular and steep staircases; one is called Breakneck Stairs for good reason. Don’t miss the Lower Town’s Quartier Petit Champlain and the charming Palace Royale, as well as the stunning five-storey mural Quebecois Fresco depicting 400 years of history.
Parliament Building
This gorgeous eight-storey building runs free 45-minute tours and is an ideal spot for a lunch stop with both a café and restaurant. Set in lovely gardens adorned by the Tourny Fountain, the Parliament’s exterior is equally as impressive, adorned with 22 statues of Quebecois politicians and leaders.
Ferry trip
For another great perspective on the city and a chance to snap wonderful photos of the Chateau Frontenac, take the ferry across the St Lawrence River to the south shore town of Levis. It’s 15 minutes each way and departs right from the heart of the Lower Town.
Eat
In a city with more than 600 eateries - 100 of them in the old town - it’s easy to eat well and often. For breakfast and good coffee try Café Krieghoff at Avenue Cartier, a short walk from the Upper Town. Tuck into crepes, French toast, omelettes and bowls of café au lait.
W: www.cafekrieghoff.qc.ca
The Aux Anciens Canadiens occupies the oldest building in the city. The cute whitewashed and red-roofed restaurant serves traditional Quebecois fare (bison steak, pheasant legs, maple syrup pie). It’s a little expensive for a la carte, however, the three-course special (available daily before 5.45pm) with wine/beer costs just C$25 (approximately AUD24.50).
Website: www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca
When wandering through the Petit Champlain quarter pop into Bistro Sous Le Fort for lunch or dinner and try the duck and pistachio rillettes or any of the duck dishes. Ideal for people-watching, this charming bistro is near one of the town’s famous murals.
Website: www.bistrosouslefort.com
Another favourite in the lower town is Panache, within the hotel Auberge Saint-Antoine in a beautifully-restored maritime warehouse. Fine cuisine is matched by the lush décor. Feast on Nova Scotia lobster or Appalachian venison, or indulge in the seven-course degustation meal.
Website: www.saint-antoine.com/en/dining
Don’t miss a chance to dine at Chateau Frontenac. The fine-dining Le Champlain restaurant is presided over by celebrity chef Jean Soulard. The two degustation menus are the ‘best deals’ in an otherwise expensive restaurant. For an affordable afternoon treat book the ‘old fashioned tea’ of dainty sandwiches, scones and pastries, offered from Thursday to Saturdays in summer for C$37.
Website: www.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec/
Stay
It dominates the city skyline, has the best location in town and has hosted luminaries from Charles de Gaulle to Queen Elizabeth II. Opened in 1893 in the style of a Loire Valley chateau, the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac is really the place to stay in Quebec. While pricey, there are good internet deals to be had. The 618-room hotel is undergoing a C$66 million facelift set to transform all rooms, suites and the restaurants, as well as expanding the already-lovely pool and spa.
Website: www.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec
A cosy B&B in the Montcalm precinct, L’Arvidienne is a 10-minute bus ride from the old town and short walk from the Plains of Abraham and the Museum de Beaux Arts. Each of the three rooms – Degas, Monet and Van Gogh – has decor inspired by the works of the impressionist artists. Welcoming hosts, a lavish English breakfast, free Wi-Fi and parking, and very reasonable rates (from C$119 a night in the low season) make this a great place to stay.
Website: www.arvidienne.com
10 things you should know about Quebec
- It’s the cradle of French civilisation in North America.
- Quebec is the only walled city in North America.
- There are more than a dozen large wall murals.
- Twenty-eight staircases connect the upper and lower town.
- 95 per cent of the 516,622-strong population speaks French.
- Samuel de Champlain founded the city in 1608.
- Quebec comes from ‘Kebec’, an Algonquin word meaning ‘where the river narrows’.
- It has the only ice hotel in the Americas, Hotel de Glace.
- The St Lawrence River is the longest river navigable by ocean-going cruise ships, with Quebec located 1300 km from the Atlantic.
- Dozens of cruises travel between Quebec and New York, and Quebec and Boston each year.
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