Where the waters meet

17 Jul 2015

Beautiful closed waters are the new nomad’s paradise, with thousands currently sailing through retirement on the UK’s famous network of inland canals.

The British winter can feel endless, but just as soon as the season seems to dig in its heels, out of nowhere comes the kind of early spring day that makes the cold grey months seem a distant memory. It was one of these days as I strolled in the sun alongside a pretty canal with rows of long colourful boats, accompanied by regal swans.

I had come to the Grand Union Canal in Uxbridge, on the western outskirts of London, to meet Tom and Jan, a couple who enjoy travelling Britain’s canals for leisure. And so, here I was, stepping off solid ground and onto Waiouru – the handmade wooden boat that the retired couple from New Zealand have called their home for the past four years.

The highways of the industrial revolution

Britain is connected by a network of 3,200 kilometres of inland canals. The ‘highways’ of the industrial revolution, they were originally used in the 18 and 19th centuries for the transport of goods on narrowboats – boats specifically designed to fit through the canal locks, which can be as narrow as two metres. These boats were pulled by horses, which would trot alongside the boat on grassy towpaths.

Back then, the canals would have been noisy and polluted – the idea of using them for leisure would have been as tempting as camping next to a busy freeway today. However, as rail and road took over, the canals quietened and for decades, not only did their usage drop off, but many were filled in as they became too expensive to maintain.

Today, organisations such as the Canal & River Trust are breathing new life into these manmade waterways, recognising not only their heritage value but also environmental significance and tourism potential.

“Canals are enjoying a renaissance,” says Jonathan Ludford, a spokesperson for the trust. “Two hundred miles of new or lost canals have been restored or opened since the millennium – communities once again recognise the value of canals.”

The trust is tasked with promoting and protecting the canals, as well as operating and managing the waterways for the roughly 32,000 boats now using them – more than at the height of the industrial revolution. 

From hobby to lifestyle

Having teetered down steep stairs into Tom and Jan’s living room, the first thing that struck me was the sense of space. The interior is a 13-metre long ‘hallway’, in which I could comfortably stand. At the far end is Tom and Jan’s bedroom, then the bathroom, the living space complete with a fire for heating, followed by the kitchen with ample storage. The boat’s interior is well-lit by the sunshine through several windows offering views onto the pretty waterway. 

As we settled in for tea and homemade lemon cake, Tom and Jan explained they had first dipped their toes into the canals back in 2001 when they travelled over for a holiday on a hire boat. They loved the experience – particularly the slow pace of life (the speed limit on the canals is 6.5 km/hr, roughly walking speed) and so they returned for short stints on hire boats every couple of years.

Then, in 2010, they turned their hobby into a lifestyle. They spent the year building Waiouru, named after a New Zealand town where they once lived, and which translates to ‘where the waters meet’.

“I suppose to some extent, we’ve always been wanderers,” says Tom, whose parents worked in the army, meaning his childhood was spent moving around a lot. Jan's father worked in aviation and she grew up in North Africa.

With Tom also in the army, and later working in transport, the couple has lived together in New Zealand, Perth, Adelaide, Singapore and now England – so the roving nomadic lifestyle is second nature to them.

However, despite all the things the couple love about narrowboating – the beautiful environment, relaxed pace of life and friendly community – it isn’t always plain sailing. From building or buying a boat, to learning how to use the manually operated, centuries-old lock systems or being frozen in for days during winter, there are challenges that new narrowboaters need to be aware of.

“Come over and hire [a boat] for a fortnight, and then decide if the lifestyle is for you,” suggests Tom.

Tom and Jan are coming towards the end of their planned five years on Waiouru, but as for what’s next, they’re not entirely sure. One thing is certain – they're not in any rush. When we met, Tom and Jan had just spent 10 weeks travelling about 110km, experiencing the unique sights and sounds of England. 

“Someone once said to me that canals are the fastest way to slow down,” says Jonathan.

“They were right – strangers still say hello to each other, you see wildlife you’d normally miss, and you get a unique perspective of the countryside, towns and cities along the way.”